Now I present to you the third, somewhat condensed, and final part of our Thailand adventure!
The night before we flew out of Chiang Mai, I actually called our guest house in Bangkok to see if we could get an airport transfer, however, the man who answered the phone said that they could not do it from the airport we were arriving in (Dong Muang) at the time we were arriving. So, I Emma and I just figured we would spend most of our day looking for our guest house when we arrived.
We woke up early on January 2nd, to catch our 9am flight. One of the women at the front desk called a taxi for us to take us to the airport. The people at the guest house did offer to rent us a car, or motorbikes to the airport, but neither Emma nor I felt comfortable driving ourselves on relatively unknown Thai streets.
Emma and I flew on Nok airways for our domestic flight. I remember when I first purchased the tickets, I was confused by their mascot, which is a disembodied bird beak; but it made more sense when I saw the bird beak painted on the front of their airplanes.
We slept for most of our flight to Bangkok, and our baggage arrived at the carousel faster than it did in Chiang Mai.
The flight was the easy part, getting into the city of Bangkok, not so much. After a little bit of circling, Emma and I found our way to the Dong Muang train station, and waited an hour before catching a train to Hualamphong Bangkok train station. The tickets were very cheap, only 52 baht for two adults.
The train was very old, and looked kind of rusty from outside. It almost looked like what I expect the trains in India to look like, minus the numerous commuters hanging off outside of the cars.
It wasn’t any cleaner inside of the cars. There were a few fans inside the car we were on, but two of them weren’t working. There were also older women that would walk up and down the aisles holding plastic baskets selling drinks and snacks. Emma and I didn’t have any seats at first, but eventually some people got off and various spots, and we were able to sit together. We also noticed that we were the only non-Thai people in our car, carrying luggage. At first I was slightly nervous about standing out on the train, but nobody bothered us, and I figured that this probably wasn’t the first time tourists have taken the train from the airport to the city.
There was no voice recording calling out station names at each stop, like I’m used to in Japan, so I did get a little nervous that we would miss our station, or that we were accidentally going in the wrong direction, but after thirty minutes we arrived at Bangkok train station.
After getting off the train, Emma and I went off to search for a taxi to take us to our guest house. However, our guest house is very close to Khaosan road. We asked four taxis to take us to Khaosan, and they all refused. Apparently, this is very common in Bangkok. The taxi drivers will refuse to take you to an area for various reasons, such as; they have a personal problem with certain people in that area, or they know that a certain area has high traffic during a certain time of day, and they don’t want to spend time in standstill traffic, when they could be taking other customers to different places and making more money at the same time.
Frustrated, Emma and I started to walk to the other side of the train station to see if there was another taxi stop there, and to try again. Luckily, we bumped into some official government Thai Tourist agents. They wear official badges and direct you where you need to go, and they are also the people that you report to if you feel you’ve been scammed, or robbed, etc.
One of the agents asked where we were going. We told her we were trying to go to Khaosan, but none of the taxis would take us there. She got another agent to pull over a tuk-tuk for us. We then paid 150 baht for a tuk-tuk voucher. The voucher had the Thai translation of where we wanted to go, and another agent helped us load ourselves and our luggage into a tuk-tuk, and we were off!
It was a fun, yet slightly scary experience in the tuk-tuk. Our driver was fast, but it also didn’t help that we didn’t have seatbelts, and I was squeezing my rolling bag between my legs to keep it from sliding out whenever we turned. But overall, it wasn’t as frightening as falling off an elephant.
In the end, we made it to Khaosan Road in one piece! We quickly wove our way to the other end of the street, and then got a little lost down some side streets, until we found an area that was just full of hostels, and finally found our guest house!
The man at the front desk remembered me from when I had called the night before, and led me and Emma to our room. Our room in Bangkok actually had a nicer bathroom than our guest house in Chiang Mai.
After settling in, Emma and I went out to search for at least one nearby tourist attraction that wouldn’t close by 4pm, and to catch a quick lunch. That proved to be a bit difficult, considering we went walking in the direction of the Grand Palace. We didn’t want to try to squeeze that in under two hours, so we did a quick look through an art museum. We thought we saw advertisements for a café in the museum, but when we got to the café, we found that they only served drinks, and not food. We stayed for a bit of Thai tea, and then looked at one of the exhibits that actually had some paintings that were done by one of the former kings of Thailand.
Emma and I were still quite hungry after the museum, and it was getting close to 5 o’clock, so we decided to just call it a day, and go get an early dinner along Khaosan road, before turning in for the night.
Our guest house had its own tourist desk, and when we came back from dinner, we decided to take a look at some of the tours, and see what was available. There was a tour that included the floating market, and visiting the Ayuthaya ruins, but Emma didn’t feel like doing a whole day tour, so we just did the half day tour for the floating markets instead.
We had our half day the next day in the morning. We actually waited almost a whole hour for our tour to come and pick us up, and there were other tourists waiting in our guest house lobby, waiting for their tours to come and pick them up too.
Finally our van came, and thus began our floating market tour, where we didn’t understand half of what was going on.
We were all given stickers to put on our shirts, so that the tour guide would know that we belonged to the same group. We were on the highway out of the city at around 8:30, and at one point, our van stopped, and another van pulled up behind us. A different man opened the door, looked at us, and pulled out two Chinese women who were wearing different colored stickers, and ushered them into the other van, before we pulled back onto the highway. I tried catching up on some sleep in the van, but the ride was so bumpy, my head kept hitting the window.
We made a rest stop at a gas station. Emma stayed in the van to sleep, and I got out to grab a drink. Inside was a teenage boy who had his pet Pomeranian on top of the ice cream cooler. He would handle the transactions in between playing with his dog.
After grabbing my drink and using the restroom, I tried to get back inside the van, but the driver barred me, and said the break wasn’t over yet, and that I had to wait. I’ve honestly never had that happen before when I was on a tour group, but I guess it gave me more time to stretch my legs.
When we finally arrived at the floating markets, our tour guide informed us that we had just a little over an hour to go shopping on our own, before we had to meet back at the same spot to board the “Dragon Boat.” He then informed us that the money we had paid for the tour covered the van, and the Dragon boat, but not the regular boats that take you around the floating market. I’m pretty sure it was supposed to cover the regular boats, but the guide kept brushing off the other tourists who were complaining about it. Emma and I decided to just pay for the regular boat tickets out of pocket, since it was a nominal fee anyway. Right before we entered the boat, there was a photographer who took photos of everyone getting into the boat.
We did buy some tacky touristy things while we were on the boat, like magnets and two jade elephant figurines, but mostly we bought food. It was delicious! We bought sticky rice, dragon fruit, mango, and fruit juice. We were almost full by the time we finished our forty minute boat ride.
Near the end of the ride, our boatman in the back kept nudging one of the Chinese tourists in front of us until they handed over some money. After they handed money to him, he started to nudge Emma in the shoulder a few times, grunted, showed her the money the Chinese tourists had paid him. Then he gestured for her to pay up. We just flat out refused to give him money, no matter how loud he grunted, since we had already paid the fee to get onto the boat. I think this man had tried this trick before to get extra money out of tourists, and was trying to see what he could get from us.
After getting off the boat, a man rushed up to us to try and sell us a quickly, yet poorly made souvenir plate from the photo that was taken of us when we first got on the boat. We politely refused and went on to look at the shops that were on dry land.
At one point, I was accosted by a short, older woman who tried to sell me tiger balm. She got me by trying to get me to smell the jar of the tiger balm, before she shoved the jar into my hand, and then proceeded to rub it on my wrist, neck, and temples, and would not let go of me! So Emma had to come over and rescue me, and we pretended that we were late to meet our group.
We later found a shop that had nice silk scarves and silk tops. This was one place where we tried our haggling skills. I’m not super confident with my haggling skills, but I did get the shop keep to lower the price of a golden silk top by 300 baht, before I went and bought some more silk scarves. During the transactions, a little boy was following me. I later realized that he was most likely the shop keep’s son. After every transaction, he would shove a trinket into my hand, and the woman would say, “Oh! He’s giving you a present!” I was reluctant to accept the boy’s presents because I know about the ploy of giving out gifts, and expecting money in return. (Almost all of the street children do this in Argentina.) It turns out they didn’t ask for more money in return for the little gift the boy was giving me, although the woman did try to talk me into buying a coat before Emma and I had to meet with our group again.
Right before entering the Dragon Boat, I grabbed a beer for Emma and I. It was a lot of fun. The Dragon Boats are larger than the regular boast in the market, and so they cannot actually go through the stalls, but they take you through the other parts of the riverway, and they go much faster.
After the ride, we got off the boat, and were ushered back into the van to take us back to Bangkok. The van dropped us off right by Khaosan road, and after dropping off our purchases at our guest house, we went right on over to the Royal Palace.
The dress code at the Royal Palace is much more strict than the normal Buddhist temples in Thailand. Women are not supposed to wear shorts or show their shoulders in the temples. Most of the time I was able to get away with wearing my capris, but they weren’t acceptable at the Royal Palace. Emma and I had to wait in a long line to rent a sarong from the Palace. The rental is technically free, but you have to pay a 200 baht deposit, and bring the sarong back before closing time to get your money back.
It was interesting trying to enter the Royal Palace, because the ticket counter isn’t well marked, and then the entrance actually had two separate lines for Thai citizens and tourists, even though we were all going through the same gate.
The Royal Palace is impressive, and beautiful, but it was super crowded, and it was difficult to get some good pictures without having the back of someone’s head, or some other random body parts of other tourists.
Emma and I also got turned around and went in circles a lot in the palace compound.
We did manage to see the famous Emerald Buddha, but we were not allowed to take pictures inside, and I didn’t really have the time to appreciate it. Emma and I were pressed in the crowd of all of the other tourists who were squeezing in to look at the Emerald Buddha, and we were constantly shuffling from one side of the temple to the other, and there was no place to just stop and look without getting trampled.
We stayed until it was almost closing time. There were some other buildings that we wanted to look at, but some of them were closed. After the Royal Palace, we headed back to Khaosan for dinner and some more shopping, where I bought some cheap tank tops, and a pair of those touristy Thai loungepants.
The next day Emma and actually took our time in the morning, and had breakfast at our guest house. I tried a traditional Thai breakfast of rice porridge with pork dumplings. It was really good, and not too spicy, and kept me full for most o f the day.
Emma and I tried to see if we could catch a bus to Hualamphong train station, but we could not find the bus stop for the bus we were looking for, so we eventually just hailed a cab. The cab driver kept asking us how much money we were going to give him, but we insisted on the meter. He did run the meter, but every once in awhile he would laugh when he said the word meter, and it made Emma and I very uncomfortable. We finally reached the train station, and I shoved 85 baht into the driver’s hands right as Emma and I rushed out of the cab.
We took the Bangkok metro to get to the Jim Thompson house. It was very interesting, because we had to go through metal detectors just to get into the underground, before we even bought our metro tickets from the machine. Instead of actual tickets, the machine dispensed these plastic coins. You hold the coin to be scanned in order to enter the gate, and when you reach your destination, you drop your plastic coin into a slot.
It took us awhile to find the Jim Thompson house from the train station, but we eventually found it at the end of a secluded street.
We really enjoyed our tour of the Jim Thompson house. We were not allowed to take pictures inside the house on our tour, but we could take pictures of the garden, and we could take pictures from the outside through windows and open doors.
One of the fascinating things we learned on the tour, was that Jim Thompson had his horoscope read before he built and moved into his house. This is a traditional Thai practice, so that people know the best days to start building a house, and the best day to move into a house. Jim Thompson actually used this information to start building and to move into his house. This same horoscope also told him that he needed to be careful in his 61st year, because it would be a bad luck year for him. As it turns out, that’s the year he disappeared in Malaysia.
We also learned that in many traditional Thai houses, the Buddhist spirit houses are always placed in a corner of the property where the house’s shadow won’t fall on it. If the house’s shadow falls on the spirit house, it invites bad luck to the family living inside.
Emma and I ate our lunch at the Jim Thompson house. It turned out to be the most expensive meal on our trip, but we figured we would eat there before heading over for our big shopping expedition at MBK shopping center.
MBK shopping center is a huge new and modern shopping mall in the center of Bangkok. Emma and I were amused to find that a Tokyu Hands spanned over three floors of the shopping mall. We took a quick look, only to find that they pretty much sold the exact same things at the Tokyu Hands in Bangkok, as they do in Japan.
The main shopping objective for me was to get shoes, since it’s nearly impossible for me to find shoes in my size back in Japan. However, I had to figure out my Thai shoe size first! I had come to Thailand with the expectation that it would be easy to find cute shoes in my size, since some of the shoe stores also cater to lady-boys. That turned out to not be the case for most of the shoe stores I went to. Some of them did carry larger sizes, but the clerks would have to search in the back for awhile, or they didn’t carry my size for the shoe styles that I actually wanted.
Eventually, Emma and I made it to a larger shoe store on one of the upper floors that happened to have plenty of shoes in my size, so I went ahead and bought four pairs of shoes there.
Before we finished our shopping trip, Emma and I had dinner at this International Food court. At this food court, you go around and order food and pay by using a card, that accumulates the price of the everything you order, and then you pay when you leave. Even though there was some delicious Thai food available, I ordered mussels, and so many cheese dishes, because I cannot find these things easily back in Japan. I finished up with a dessert of Mango and sticky rice.
Emma and I dragged our purchases along the Bangkok metro back to Hualamphong station, and caught a taxi back to Khaosan. We ended up paying more for this taxi, and probably could have got a lower price, but he was the only taxi willing to take us all the way to Khaosan, so we just paid the 150 baht back.
The next day was our final day in Thailand. Emma and I spent this day packing, and taking another leisurely breakfast at our guest house. I had the Rice porridge again, but this time with chicken instead of pork. In my opinion, the pork is better, because it was more succulent.
We also booked a van ride to the airport later that night, through the same woman running the tour desk. Since our flight wasn’t until after midnight that night, we reserved an 11pm van.
We then spent the rest of our day seeing temples that we hadn’t seen yet. We saw the famous giant reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. It was much less crowded than the Grand Palace, so I enjoyed it more.
We also took the river boat to go and see Wat Arun. We climbed to the top, but it was a little stressful, because it was so steep. I was very grateful for the handrails that they installed. I can’t imagine how the monks climbed it so many years ago. The view of Bangkok from the top is beautiful though.
We then took the river boat to Chinatown. It was very crowded, and most of the markets there sold cheap plastic trinkets, but we did find a restaurant to just sit down and eat. We each ordered one dish, and were about to order more, when we noticed a few bugs skittering across the floor, so we decided to leave.
We took the river boat once again, and got off a stop called Bangkok riverside. It’s this new building along the river that has a café and a few cute shops, though not everything is open yet. Emma and I got off there, because we saw signs saying that the flower market would be there. The flower market was not in the building, but we saw signs saying to go outside. We went outside, and followed the signs towards what looked like a warehouse. As we walked inside, we noticed only a few fruit vendors, and everything else was very dark. We didn’t see any other tourists, or any flower vendors. It honestly looked more like a setting for a horror film, so we just walked right back outside and gave up looking for the flower market.
We just stopped and got tea at one of the cafes inside the new riverside building, before heading back to the Khaosan area. We ate our last Thai meal, did some last minute shopping, and got last minute Thai massages before picking up our luggage, and catching our van to Suvarnabhumi airport.
Emma and I were along the second stop for our van driver that night, and he went around Bangkok stuffing the van full of people and luggage. There were enough people and luggage to fill two vans, but he just kept stuffing us in. I also hate to play to stereotypes but, there was one group of French backpackers who got into the van with us, and the entire van just reeked of their collective body odor the moment that they got in. I was grateful when someone finally opened a window on the highway.
We arrived at the airport with some time to spare before we had to check in. Even though Suvarnabhumi is a new and sleek looking airport, it’s actually poorly designed. It could also be that Emma and I were just cranky, because it was past 1am, and we just wanted to sit down. But the gates are designed so that you have to wait for someone to unlock a door just to go to the waiting area of a gate, before you can actually take a seat. Emma and I were just two people sitting on the floor of a tiny walkway, waiting for someone to just let us go down, and get seats.
It was also nearly impossible to get a decent charge port to charge our phones before we took off. We were happy when we finally were able to board our plane, and just sleep the whole way back over to Japan.
Overall, I loved Thailand, and I’m glad that I was finally able to go with a friend. I do have to say that I enjoyed Chiang Mai more than Bangkok, but that’s just my personal preference. The one thing I miss the most is the food, but I don’t miss all of the pushy street vendors and pushy “helpful” tour guides on the streets. Thailand was great, but both Emma and I felt good to be back in Japan. Except for the cold. I wish we could’ve been able to bring the Thai weather back with us!